The dazzling city of Isfahan, or Esfahan as it’s also called, is an important cultural hub in Iran with some of the most breathtaking mosques in the country. It’s said that Isfahan is half the world. A world you won’t want to leave after spending only a few days there.
There are plenty of things to do in Isfahan whether you like to get lost in the Grand bazar, view fascinating architecture, or hike to the best views of town and there is no doubt why the city is on most traveler’s Iran itinerary. In Isfahan, you can experience some of the most authentic local gatherings if you just let yourself go with the flow and accept invitations from the friendly locals.
Slow down in Isfahan and you will fall in love. And this comes from me. And I don’t even like cities. There is no doubt, Isfahan is different. It’s full of life, culture, colors, hopes, and dreams. Be a part of it, if only for a few days, and leave a small part of your heart behind. Or a big chunk.
Isfahan might be on the trodden tourist route in Iran, but the country is still one of those off the beaten track destinations you need to visit, so even so, you won’t meet too many tourists.
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READ: Why I fell in love with Iran
How to get to Isfahan
Isfahan is one of the larger cities in Iran and easy to get to using different forms of transport.
Plane
One frequent question I get is if it is safe to fly into Iran after the tragic accident that downed a Ukranian passenger flight just after it took off from Tehran Airport on the 8th of January 2020.
I am not the one to recommend you if it is safe or not, and I always recommend to check with your local authorities before you travel to a country that has been or is involved in any conflict.
That said, Tap Persia said it very neatly: “Here is the best indicator of weather you should get on flight: If the captain feels safe piloting the plane, then you can feel comfortable. Flying, even to Iran, is still one of the safest transportation options available. The global average of plane crashes is far less than 1 in a million.”
Isfahan has an international airport with direct connections to 14 destinations in 5 countries and is easy to get to from most places with connecting flights. Turkish Airlines has daily flights to Isfahan.
There are also domestic flights to Isfahan from all around Iran.
Find the best flight deal to Isfahan here
Bus
There are various bus terminals in Isfahan, whereof Kaveh, Sofeh, Zayanderud, and Jey are the major stations. There are frequent daily buses from and to all major cities in Iran as well as there are buses commuting to smaller places.
Train
You can easily get to Isfahan by train from any main city in Iran, whereof the most frequent are Tehran, Yazd, Kashan, Shiraz, and Mashhad.
It is highly recommended to book your ticket in advance to secure a spot on the train.
Private car
If you have your own car or if you have hired a car with a driver, it is easy to get to Isfahan. However, be aware of traffic in the city center, something that can make the journey longer than expected.
READ: All you need to know before you travel to Iran!
Where to stay in Isfahan
There are plenty of places to stay in Isfahan, but here are some recommendations.
Anar Guest House
Anar Guest House is owned and run by two sisters that will surely make you feel like home. The rooms are clean and great value for money.
They also have a welcoming homestay you can choose to stay at. Anar Guest House offers Persian Cooking Classes where you learn how to create tasty, colorful Persian dishes.
Both locations are walking distance to the Metro which takes you straight into the center of Isfahan.
I can’t recommend this place enough!
Book your stay with Anar Guest House here.
Mahbibi Hostel
In the center of Isfahan, situated right next to the most important landmarks, you find this welcoming hostel. Also this place offers Persian cooking classes, Farsi, and yoga classes.
Mahbibi Hostel is a top pick among backpackers!
Book your stay with Mahbibi Hostel here.
Hatef House
Hatef House is a historical house that was restored in 1397. Now it welcomes guests from all over the world, and with only 10 minutes walking distance to some of the most popular Isfahan tourist attractions, it is a perfect place to stay.
Book your stay with Hatef House here.
Things to do in Isfahan
There are so many incredible things to see in Isfahan that the city must be on any Iran itinerary. Get ready to visit the most beautiful city in Iran!
Naqsh-e Jahan Square
Naqsh-e Jahan Square is impossible to miss whether you want it or not. The UNESCO World Heritage site is one of the largest squares in the world and the hub for numerous Isfahan tourist attractions like mesmerizing mosques and the buzzing bazaar. Yet, this is one of the most underrated landmarks in Asia.
Nonetheless, the symmetric square is so much more than this. It is a popular chill-out place for families, groups of friends, and couples and the green areas are dotted with locals chatting, eating, and laughing. It is a good idea to join in after a day of walking while indulging in some newly bought treats from the bazar.
Sheik Lotfollah Mosque
Set on the side of the Naqsh-e Jahan Square on the opposite side of Ali Qapu Palace, Sheik Lotfollah Mosque is a modest beauty and a favorite amongst the locals, especially the women. The mosque with the great dome was originally built for the women and public access was denied for a long time. For this reason, this mosque was ignored by Westerners until it was finally opened to the public.
Now that you can enter, you will be led through a simply decorated, winding hall, before leaving you speechless once you enter the dome chamber. The large room is ornated with colorful tilework all the way up to the dome. Thin rays of sunlight from the high windows cut through the darkness and give it an outer-worldly atmosphere and this is the magic that makes you want to stay in there forever.
Entrance fee: 500 000 IR
Shah Mosque
Shah Mosque is maybe the most stunning mosque in Isfahan and is situated at the end of the Naqsh-e Jahan Square looking at Gheysarieh Bazar entrance on the opposite far end. Once you enter the main square of the mosque there is so much beauty on all sides and I think I spent about 15 minutes just watching my surroundings before I could choose where to go next.
Here too, the rays of the sun will cut through the window at the right time at day and the photogenic walls become even more spectacular. There is one point where the acoustics are remarkable and if you are lucky you can listen to an Iranian sing spellbinding Islamic verses.
Entrance fee: 500 000 IR
Ali Qapu Palace
Ali Qapu Palace, standing on the opposite of Sheik Lotfollah Mosque on the Naqsh-e Jahan Square is an old residential palace from the end of the 16th century. The palace has a massive terrace with the best views of the square, but the most fascinating is the music room on the top floor. Beautifully decorated with instruments, the walls and ceilings are built for incredible acoustics.
Entrance fee: 500 000 IR
Azadegan Tea House
Popular amongst the locals for its excellent tea and local food, Azadegan Tea House is attracting many visitors for its unique collection of antiques. During lunch hours the place is packed and you might have to wait to be served, though the time flies quickly while studying all the quirky pieces of artwork covering the walls and ceiling.
According to a local, the owner refuses to sell the antiques even though he has been offered large amounts of money for some of them.
You find the diverse tea house in a side alley from Naqsh-e Jahan Square. If you don’t have a map, just ask someone on the square and they will point you in the right direction or even follow you all the way there.
Gheysarieh Bazar
At the far end of Naqsh-e Jahan Square, you find the beautifully decorated main entrance of the Gheysarieh Bazar. It’s time to get lost. Like an ancient underground city come to life, the bazar offers anything from Persian carpets to good smelling spices. You can happily spend a few hours here if you like to look around and English-speaking sellers will gladly talk to without pushing for a sale.
Jameh Mosque
The biggest mosque in Isfahan connects with the Naqsh-e Jahan Square through the bazaar. Entering the Jameh Mosque you will be met by massive arches under the high ceiling.
The main square is huge and the surrounding colorful architecture is striking. You can easily wander around here an hour or two exploring every inch of beauty. Sit down in the main square and watch the birds fly around the colorful dome.
Entrance fee: 500 000 IR
Isfahan Contemporary Art Gallery
If you look for something completely different, a wander through Isfahan Contemporary Art Gallery is interesting. There are different exhibitions showcasing different parts of history through modern artwork.
The gallery has a nice garden with a fountain outside where you can get some peace after a long day walking around the city.
Entrance fee: 300 000 IR
Join a Persian cooking class
While you are in Isfahan, why not take a cooking class so you can learn how to use all those spices you bought in the bazaar?
I can warmly recommend Maryam’s Persian Cooking class. She runs Anar Guest House and can adapt the class for both vegetarians and vegans and the food turns out delicious!
You find her on Trip Advisor here.
Si O Se Pol Bridge
Si O Se Pol Bridge is one of two historical bridges worth seeing, built in the 17th century. Crossing the dried-out river that once flowed through Isfahan, the bridge is beautifully lit at night and makes the perfect photo motive.
Armenian Quarter
New Julfa is one of the largest Armenian quarters in the world. Armenians were moved from Julfa in Northern Iran to New Julfa by Shah Abbas I and still today, there is religious freedom to practice Christianity in the 13 remaining churches.
Vank Cathedral is the main attraction and the interiors contain beautiful frescos dating back to the Safavid era, painted by Armenian artists.
Jewish Quarter
The Jewish quarter, called Jubareh, used to house one of the oldest Jewish communities. Opposed to many other Jewish communities in the world, the one in Isfahan was voluntary and therefore you won’t find any enclosures or city gates. The narrow streets are filled with small shops and are quite nice to walk around.
There are now 17 synagogues in Jubareh and the major ones are now being restored as National Heritage sites.
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Khaju Bridge at night
Go here on a Friday night and be sure to witness local men getting together under the lit-up Khaju Bridge singing beautiful Persian lines, dancing with strangers, clapping and laughing. This is only for men, but women are allowed to watch. It is an incredibly unique cultural experience to witness a local tradition like this. Don’t miss it!
You can buy street food and hot tea to keep you warm. You will probably even find vegan street food here.
Climb the Fire Temple
As some of the most ancient structures in Isfahan are the ruins of the Fire Temple, nicely situated on the top of a cliff on the outskirts of the city. The 20-minute hike up the rough hilltop is steep and raw.
I don’t recommend going there if the ground is wet from rain as the mud will make it extremely slippery.
Once you get to the top, you will get rewarded by great 360 views of the foggy city and surroundings. The ruins make the perfect place for a snack in the shade.
Entrance fee: 300 000 IR
READ: How to spend 2 days in Garmeh Iran: A desert oasis
Climb Soffe Mountain for sunset
Soffe Mountain is popular among day hikers all year round. You can get a cable car halfway up, but if you have the time, you should take the walk. Once you pass the cable car turn right and follow the rugged mountain up for another 20 minutes and you will have the views of the city and the sunset behind the mountains on the other side. The views are mesmerizing once the sky is colored pink. Unless you walk down quickly, I suggest you bring a headlamp or torch to make sure you find your way back down.
To get to Soffe Mountain, I suggest you take a Snapp (The Iranian version of Uber) or a taxi.
Party like a local in a tea house
Isfahan has many tea hoses. And I’m not talking about the regular place where you have tea and chat. These are simple disco’s where locals dance and smoke shisha. And have tea. There are the family friendly ones and there are the ones where drunk people gather, even though alcohol is forbidden in Iran, somehow, they get hold of it, as with everything forbidden.
I was invited to a family-friendly tea house. Even the babies were carried on the dance floor while Despasito was playing out loud and the young girls let their hair loose and shook off their booties. Then, a Persian song came on, and I confusingly found myself holding hands in a ring of men and women, all throwing their left foot in and then their right foot in. Singing out loud, laughing and forgetting about the strict rules of the outside world where the women have to cover their head, I was carried away too.
You might also like: 10 Top things to do in Kashan – a deep dive into ancient Persian culture
Tips for responsible travel in Isfahan
Iranians are quite forgivable towards tourists if you should make a cultural mistake, but anyway, here are a few tips for responsible travel to take with you on the trip.
Ask before you snap that photo
Unnecessary to say, remember to always ask before you snap that photo of a local.
However, what is important to mention is that there are strict rules against taking photos of certain official buildings, police officers, and military personnel. If you are unsure, ask if it is ok or not. Better to be safe than sorry, as a photo of the wrong building can bring you to jail.
Use the rubbish bins provided
There are plenty of rubbish bins all around Isfahan, so instead of dropping your waste on the ground, make sure you carry it to a bin. That simple.
Avoid horse carriage tours
Unethical animal tourism is an important thing to me, and I don’t recommend paying for tours around Naqsh-e Square by horse carriage. In general, when horses are used for tourism in a city there are no benefits for the animals, so take a walk instead.
Don’t throw toilet paper in the toilets
The drains in Iran are not welcoming anything but poop and pee or they clog up. So do your hosts a favor and throw all paper etc. in the bins provided so they don’t have to unclog your stinky business.
Respect the dress code
Especially you ladies, make sure you wear the obligatory hijab and cover your behind, elbows, and thighs. You will clearly see how the local ladies dress, so there is no need to panic. The hijab can be loosely hanging on the back of your head and a long shirt will do the job.
But also you guys, no singlets or shorts, please. It’s ok with t-shirts but you need to wear long pants.
Altogether, Isfahan is a modern city and you will see that people dress accordingly.
Bring a reusable water bottle
To reduce plastic waste, I always recommend you to carry with you a reusable water bottle to avoid buying water. The tap water in Isfahan is drinkable so you will do fine with a steel water bottle like this one from Greens Steel that keeps the water cold all day. However, if you like to filter your water anyway, this bottle from Brita does the job.
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Great article Linn! You covered all the best points about Isfahan beautifully. ??
Thank you so much, Ashlyn! 🙂
thank you very much. I’m Iranian and from Isfahan. You’r information is very complete and useful for tourists.
Thank you!